Girdled by the Podhigai hills, is this little town of Tenkashi, very close to the Kerala – Tamil Nadu border. It is from these hills that the Coutrallam Waterfalls come gushing down. Tenkashi had earlier been a part of Kerala . I had last visited the place with my family sometime in 2019. The train services to the town were yet to resume. They had been suspended because the railway line was being rebuilt. We travelled by bus from Kollam in Kerala and trust me, the journey was a lovely one.
Tenkasi along with Kanya Kumari was merged in 1956 , with Tamil Nadu. This is a small bustling town with friendly and warm hearted people. Drop into one of their hotels, and you are bound to be served by waiters who hover around you, making sure that you are comfortable and enjoying each of the delicacies they serve. You feel as if you are a guest at their home.
Right in the Centre is the beautiful Tenkashi temple with its magnificent seven tiered Gopuram. The temple was built in the 13th century by the Pandyan ruler Parakrama. According to one of the legends associated with the temple it is said that the king wanted to go to Kashi in the north. Lord Shiva appeared in his dreams and told him not to travel to the north and instead to build a temple in the South akin to the Kashi Vishwanath Nath temple in the North. The Lord asked him to follow a row of ants and build the temple at the spot where the line of ants stopped. He followed the instructions of the Lord and reached the banks of the River Chithra. He proceeded to build the temple there . The temple came to be called the Kashi Vishwanathar Temple. Tenkashi literally means the Kashi of the South.
The Coutrallam Waterfalls located on the Western Ghats are considered to be a Medical Spa. When we went there we saw a horde of people weaving their way to stand under the water fall. I dare not though !
As for the Podhigai hills, it is believed that the Sage Agasthiyar, was taught the Tamil Language by Lord Shiva on these hills. Thereafter, the Sage taught it to his followers. Tamil grammar took form at this very place.
The food is awesome. After our evening visit to the temple, we would invariably head to one of the shops to have dinner. The term “restaurant” would be misleading as it will conjure up images of plush air-conditioned places. The places we had visited at that time, some five years ago, were decent eateries with freshly cooked, piping hot food. “Meals” as they call the South Indian thaali, were served meticulously on banana leaves starting with the smaller accompaniments like pickle, followed by rice, sambhar, rasam and curd. For dinner, apart from the usual fare of Masala Dosas and idlis, one is bound to find the delicious “chapati – kurma” served with a generous helping of what North Indians call Raita. I would always opt for this. The chapatis in the south are different from the ones in the North – they are larger , thinner and even taste different. In Kolkata, I have had those kind of chapatis only at Komala Vilas @ Banana Leaf. There may be other places, but I am not aware of them.
I haven’t visited Tenkashi in the recent past but I am sure it has remained true to its authentic flavour. The simplicity of the people, the food, the beautiful temple culture and weather makes it a wonderful place. I do hope to visit the place again. A visit to Kerala may pave the way for it.
Images : The pic of the Kothu Parrotta is from Chitra’s Cookbook.
Coutrallam Waterfalls – INDIA Travel Tourism
Podhigai Hills – Tenkasi Nature Club
